Here's a Mark 1 I got recently. The pictures are from the seller. I have taken some pictures of it as well, but the files were too big to upload.
I ordered it on Reverb from a Canadian music store, Wentworth Music.
It is a wonderful instrument, looks, sounds and plays like a dream.
Mark 1 Red Burst
- LoveyX
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- LoveyX
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Re: Mark 1 Red Burst
The seller said it was from 1970, and it probably is, but it needs new strings and before changing them I am thinking about pulling the pick guard and the neck to check for date stamps. The serial number is V0286, so it probably is from the early 70's but the reason I am skeptical is it has the low hat knobs instead of the taller ones he used in the 70's. It is an amazing guitar, I was just playing some blues on it and it almost plays itself. I am thinking about putting 10's on it but if I need to adjust the intonation it looks like I may have to pull the bridge PU if the acorn nuts need to be removed in order to adjust. Anyone have any experience with that?
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Re: Mark 1 Red Burst
You might have room to adjust if you lower the pickup with the height adjustment screws...take the acorn nuts off...after adjusting intonation,..put acorn nuts back on.
not sure if that helps.Good luck with it.
Beautiful guitar. be nice to find out what the date stamps are.
tom villaflor
not sure if that helps.Good luck with it.
Beautiful guitar. be nice to find out what the date stamps are.
tom villaflor
- sleeperNY
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Re: Mark 1 Red Burst
I don't think you need to remove the nuts. There should be screwdriver slot on the other side. The nut keeps the screw from just screwing out. The screw has to remain stationary in order to move the string saddle back and forth.
Jim
Jim
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- LoveyX
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Re: Mark 1 Red Burst
Tom, Jim, thanks for the suggestions, I'll keep them in mind when I get around to changing the strings.
I have some D'Addario nickel wound 10's I want to try on it.
Hopefully I won't need to adjust the intonation, but if I do I think I am better prepared to do so.
I have some D'Addario nickel wound 10's I want to try on it.
Hopefully I won't need to adjust the intonation, but if I do I think I am better prepared to do so.
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Re: Mark 1 Red Burst
Actually Jims fix is true..leave the acorns on and just adjust rollers by the screw heads on the opposite ends .only the rollers move along the screws
tom
tom
- 101Volts
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Re: Mark 1 Red Burst
LoveyX wrote:Tom, Jim, thanks for the suggestions, I'll keep them in mind when I get around to changing the strings.
I have some D'Addario nickel wound 10's I want to try on it.
Hopefully I won't need to adjust the intonation, but if I do I think I am better prepared to do so.
If you have a Soldering Iron handy, it's a good idea to take your unwound strings and "tin" them; that is, solder the wraps near the ball ends. I always do that to new unwound strings; it extends their lifespan significantly, especially with the Mosrite's Vibrato Tailpiece.
- Austin
1966 Ventures II (German Carved, B670.)
1970s "Not a Blues Bender" Bodies: 2.
1976 Brass Rail Deluxe #10.
2013 Fender Pawn Shop Bass VI.
1970s "Not a Blues Bender" Bodies: 2.
1976 Brass Rail Deluxe #10.
2013 Fender Pawn Shop Bass VI.
- Greg_L
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Re: Mark 1 Red Burst
101Volts wrote:
If you have a Soldering Iron handy, it's a good idea to take your unwound strings and "tin" them; that is, solder the wraps near the ball ends. I always do that to new unwound strings; it extends their lifespan significantly, especially with the Mosrite's Vibrato Tailpiece.
- Austin
Truth!!!!!
I believe this is a must-do for anyone with a Mosrite/Hallmark vibrato. If you wiggle your wang bar a lot, tin the ball end of new strings.
- LoveyX
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Re: Mark 1 Red Burst
Thanks for all of your kind comments and suggestions, really appreciate it!
Over the the weekend I got to change the strings and while I had them off was able to remove the pickguard and the neck.
There were no other serial numbers or date stamps on the the neck or neck pocket besides the V0286 stamped between the two highest frets.
However the pot codes read 1377228. Does that mean the 28th week of 1972? I believe 137 denotes CentraLab.
So it is a pretty good indication it is from mid to late 1972. possibly early '73.
I took it to my daughter's on Father's day and my son in law who plays drums and I had a jam session with it, sounded pretty good!
Over the the weekend I got to change the strings and while I had them off was able to remove the pickguard and the neck.
There were no other serial numbers or date stamps on the the neck or neck pocket besides the V0286 stamped between the two highest frets.
However the pot codes read 1377228. Does that mean the 28th week of 1972? I believe 137 denotes CentraLab.
So it is a pretty good indication it is from mid to late 1972. possibly early '73.
I took it to my daughter's on Father's day and my son in law who plays drums and I had a jam session with it, sounded pretty good!
- Sarah93003
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Re: Mark 1 Red Burst
LoveyX wrote:Thanks for all of your kind comments and suggestions, really appreciate it!
Over the the weekend I got to change the strings and while I had them off was able to remove the pickguard and the neck.
There were no other serial numbers or date stamps on the the neck or neck pocket besides the V0286 stamped between the two highest frets.
However the pot codes read 1377228. Does that mean the 28th week of 1972? I believe 137 denotes CentraLab.
So it is a pretty good indication it is from mid to late 1972. possibly early '73.
I took it to my daughter's on Father's day and my son in law who plays drums and I had a jam session with it, sounded pretty good!
I'd agree, 28th week of 1972.
____________________
1965 Mosrite Celebrity Prototype with Vibramute
1972 Mosrite Celebrity-III
1977 Gibson MK-53
1982 Fender Bullet
1994 Gretsch Streamliner G3155 Custom
2005 Gibson Les Paul Standard Plus
2006 Jude Les Paul 12 String
1965 Mosrite Celebrity Prototype with Vibramute
1972 Mosrite Celebrity-III
1977 Gibson MK-53
1982 Fender Bullet
1994 Gretsch Streamliner G3155 Custom
2005 Gibson Les Paul Standard Plus
2006 Jude Les Paul 12 String
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